|
Alpacas (Lama pacos) are members of the South American
camelid family and are closely related to their cousins the llamas,
guanacos and vicuñas. Alpacas are indigenous
to the Peruvian highlands, where they were domesticated thousands
of years ago. There are an estimated 3.5–4 million alpacas in
South America, and about 95% of them are found in the southern
regions of Peru.
Alpacas, along with llamas, were treasured animals for the Inca
civilization and closely integrated into the daily life of the
Andean region. Both animals are the result of human intervention in
their breeding. Many thousands of years ago, pastoral hunters and
herders experimented with the breeding of the wild guanaco.
Through a gradual process of trial and error, they
learned the intricacies of artificial selection. By 3000 or 4000
BC, the ancient guanaco hunters had successfully “created” two new
races of animals: the llama and the alpaca. Whereas llamas were
used as a means of transport and communication, alpacas were used
for clothing, fertiliser and fuel, and they were also eaten. The
alpaca’s finest fibres were considered of such value that they were
only used by Inca royalty. The Incas considered the alpaca a source
of wealth and used it as a medium of exchange. Nowadays, the alpaca
is the key component to the economy of over 65,000 rural families,
named “Pastores Alpaqueros” or Indian herders/breeders, in the
Andean region of Peru. These families practise a traditional
breeding system that has been passed on from father to son and
share the same native environment as the animals they herd. The
women maintain the spinning and weaving traditions of their
ancestors and make rugs, mats, sweaters, gloves, socks, hats,
belts, jackets, etc. that are worn by their families or sold at
local markets. Family-owned businesses and alpaca herders depend on
the alpaca for their survival and well-being.
THE CAMILID FAMILY
The camelids are herbivorous mammals belonging to the family
Camelidae. Their evolutionary history starts some 45 million years
ago in North America with the Protylopus petersoni, an
animal 30cm in height which was the forerunner of a series of
species in which the tendency was to increasing size. It is known
that approximately 3 million years ago, the hemiauchenia, a North
American camelid similar to the llama, migrated to South America,
but little is known about its evolution because the fossil record
is fragmentary.
Taxonomy
|
Kingdom
|
Animal
|
|
Subkingdom
|
Metazoa
|
|
Phylum
|
Chordata
|
|
SubPhylum
|
Vertebrata
|
|
Class
|
Mammalia
|
|
Order
|
Artiodactyla
|
|
Suborder
|
Ruminantia
|
|
Infraorder
|
Tylopoda
|
|
Family
|
Camelidae
|
|
Tribe
|
Lamini
|
|
Genera
|
Lama
Vicugna
|
|
Species
|
Lama guanicoe Müller (Guanaco)
Lama glama (Llama)
Vicugna vicugna (Vicuña)
Vicugna pacos (Alpaca)
|
Two of these species are domesticated (the llama and the alpaca)
while the other two are wild (the guanaco and the vicuña). With the
exception of the guanaco, which may also be found in zones at sea
level, all of these species inhabit semi-arid terrain at altitudes
ranging from 3800m to 4500m above sea level and where temperatures
vary between –15ºC and +23ºC.
The llama and the alpaca were domesticated approximately 6000
years ago and almost all the pre-Inca cultures used the camelids
for food and clothing. During the Inca period, greater importance
was accorded to raising these animals and this activity became well
organised.
In the Upper Andean zone, especially in Peru and Bolivia, the
raising of llamas and alpacas constitutes a very important economic
activity which, in many cases, represents one of the few means of
subsistence available to rural families.
The camelids provide the following products:
* Fibre, which has unique characteristics in the textile
industry
* Meat, which has a very high nutritional value
* Furs and hides, used in industry and by craftsmen
* Manure, used as fertiliser and fuel.
It is not expected that alpaca will ever be a meat industry in
Australia although alpaca and llama are readily eaten in their
native countries.
Alpaca Habitat
Alpacas are mainly bred in the highlands
of Peru (the Altiplano), but also in Bolivia, Chile and Argentina,
at altitudes ranging from 10,000 to over 14,000 feet above sea
level (3,000 to +4,500m) and withstand temperatures that fluctuate
between 65°F and over 85°F (20°C to +30°C) in a single day. It was
these conditions that habituated the animals to giving birth in the
morning, so that by night time, when temperatures fell below
freezing, the babies would be dry.
The highlands provide a low-protein diet based on natural
grasses that help grow their fine fleece. In countries outside
South America where they are now bred, fleeces are finer if the
animals are not raised on protein-rich grass. One of the
attractions of alpacas is that in general health they do as well on
poor grass as on rich.

Properties of
Fiber
Peru
is the main producer and exporter of alpaca fibre in the world,
producing 4,000 tons annually. Alpaca fibre, one of the
“noble” fibres, and considered a luxury fibre, usually rivals
the popularity of such fine fibres as cashmere and pashmina
(for those who are not familiar is the wool from the neck and
underbelly of the goat "Capra Hircus" also known as
"Chyangra" that thrives only in the Himalayan of Nepal,
India &Tibet at heights of 12,000 to 14,000 feet or more where
there is little vegetation and extremely cold winters. Pashmina is
only 12-14 microns thick ) because of its natural properties.
Alpaca is a smooth, velvety, lightweight, soft, and durable
fibre. Good-quality alpaca also has considerable lustre and crimp,
though no such oil as lanolin. If 100% pure, alpaca wool is
absolutely thermal due to its hollow fibre and microscopic air
pockets, so the wearer never loses body heat and is able to
breath in warm weather. Alpaca fibres do not let water or dust
settle. Alpaca hair also comes in more than 22 natural shades,
which makes it an attractive alternative for top designers
worldwide.

some
of the factors which affect the value of alpaca fleece are:
- Fineness: This is a genetic hereditary factor—the finer
the fibre, the higher the price.
- Colour: White fibre commands a higher price from the
textile industry because it can be dyed to any
colour, including pastel shades. However, craftsmen place a
greater value on fibre of certain natural colours.
- Fibre length: The decision on whether to process alpaca
on the woollen system or the worsted system depends on the fibre
length.
- Production: The weight and degree of cleanliness of the
fleeces are important, since larger prices are commanded by fibre
that is free from impurities such as vegetable matter.
- Nutritional considerations: Nutrition affects growth and
fineness of the fibre.
PRINCIPAL NOBLE FIBERS USED IN TEXTILES
|
Species
|
Average fiber diameter (microns)
|
|
Vicuña
|
10 to 12
|
|
Angora
|
11 to 15
|
|
Pacovicuña
|
13 to 17
|
|
Cashmere
|
15 to 19
|
|
Llama
|
16 to 80
|
|
Alpaca
|
18 to 40
|
|
Merino Wool
|
12 to 22
|
|
Guanaco
|
18 to 24
|
|
Camel
|
18 to 26
|
|
Yak
|
19 to 21
|
|
Pashmina
|
12 to 14
|
|
Mohair
|
24 to 40
|
THE
ALPACA
The alpaca is the most numerous of the four South American
camelid species. With a populationof 3.5 million in Peru,
representing 75% of the world's total, the alpaca provides the main
means of sustenance for thousands of families in the high Andes.
The alpaca usually stands at 1.20m high and weighs between 45kg and
79kg. It has a smaller and more curved profile than the llama
and has a distinguishing fringe of hair on its forehead.
Alpacas share other physical characteristics of their camelid
cousins: long necks, large brown eyes (though blue eyes have been
created as a genetic defect), long legs and soft, padded feet with
two hard toes. Outside their natural environment of stony ground,
their toenails need regular clipping.
There are two varieties of the alpaca: the huacaya and the
suri.
The Huacaya is
the more numerous type in Peru, representing 93% of the population,
and has fibre that is shorter than that of some other camelids.
Its texture combines lightness in weight with density,
lustre, crimp and high volume. The fleece covers almost all the
body, only the face and lower parts of the legs having a covering
of short fibres, and it stands out at right angles to the skin,
making shearing easy. The chest and sometimes neck and belly are
characteristically covered with medullated, i.e. hollow, guard
hairs that are discarded.
The huacaya is the predominant alpaca type. Its fine and bulky
fleece offers the widest range of natural shades and has a natural
crimp or wavy quality that is enhanced by breeding. The animals
have a pleasing conformation giving the appearance of strength and
gracefulness.
In Peru alpacas are shorn with knives or shears, usually
once a year between November and April. The yield per animal is
very variable, but a general average is about five pounds (2.3kg).
There are specimens, however, which can yield fleeces weighing up
to 15 pounds (6.9kg).
The colour of the fibre varies. Up to 22 colours have been
defined, but alpaca fibre is more uniform in colour than that of
the llama. Alpaca colours range from white to black through greys,
fawns and brown s.This variety of colour is not found in other
natural fibres used in textile production.
The fibre is classified manually according to its fineness and
sorted into qualities such as Royal Alpaca (less than 19 microns),
Baby Alpaca (up to 22.5 microns), Super Fine Alpaca
(25.5 microns), Huarizo (29 microns), Coarse (32 microns) and Mixed
Pieces (short fibres generally coarser than 32 microns). The names
of these qualities do not necessarily reflect the age of the
animals or other phenotypic characteristics. The appellation
'Baby', for example, is applied to products (tops, yarns, cloth,
etc.) where the average fibre diameter is 22.5 microns. The fibre
used to obtain this quality does not necessarily come from baby
animals; it could easily come from an adult animal with a very fine
coat. Each quality is employed to create different products such as
cloth, scarves, sweaters, blankets, carpets and so on. The alpaca
may also be blended with other fibres, generally of natural origin.
Alpaca fibres are extraordinarily tough and strong, even in the
finest qualities, thus making it ideal for industrial processing.
It is furthermore easily dyed to any colour and always retains its
natural lustre.
It is also possible to process alpaca on the woollen or worsted
systems, so that it can be used to produce a range of cloths from
coarse tweeds to fine gabardine. Alpaca fibre does not easily
break, fray, stain, or accumulate charges of static electricity,
and it is easy to launder.
Alpaca provides a relatively high yield of fibre after
processing (between 87% and 95% compared with 43% to 76% for
sheep's wool). Furthermore, it is easy and economical to process
owing to the lack of grease or lanolin in the fibre and, unlike
cashmere, does not need to be de-haired. Low-grade alpaca fleece
may be contaminated with guard hair, in which case the fleece is of
no commercial value.
The
Suri is the least predominant alpaca type. It
produces a fine, lustrous, silky fibre that hangs in long pencils
or corkscrews that give the animal a characteristic and
eye-catching appearance. Its fleece comes in a narrower range of
natural shades than huacaya alpacas: white, fawns and light browns
to greys and blacks.
THE OTHER CAMELIDS
Llama (Lama glama) is the heaviest and
largest South American camelid. Its long legs and its prominent and
crooked ears are are the two main features that distinguish the llama
from the other camelids. Llamas have been domesticated and used as
a beast of burden since pre-Incan times. Even today, llamas are
part of the customs and religious rituals of the Andean people.
Some 65% of the world's llamas live in the high plateau region
of the Bolivian Andes. According to recent investigations, the
llama was first domesticated, like the alpaca, some 6000 years ago.
Llamas played a very important role in the Inca economy as they
were used for transport as well as for providing meat, fibre and
skins – as indeed they do nowadays in some Andean regions. Each
animal yields an average of 2700g of fibre. In Peru, llamas are not
necessarily shorn every year.
There are two types of llamas: the Chaku, which has abundant
long hair; and the Qara, with very short fibre and features which
strongly resemble those of the camel, especially in the sparse hair
on the face, neck and legs.
The colour of the fibre ranges through white to black through a
series of greys and all tones of brown. In recent times in
countries outside South America, such as the United States of
America, Canada and Australia, an interest has arisen in the
breeding of Lamas for pets.

Guanacos (lama guanacoe),like vicuñas, are wild
camelids that live in small bands of females, usually led by a
male. There are approximately 600,000 guanacos in South America and
90% of these live in Patagonia and Argentina, and in small numbers
in Peru, Bolivia and Chile.
The guanaco is the toughest of the South American camelids. It
is to be found mainly in the extreme south of the continent, where
some 500,000 specimens live wild among the mountains of Argentina
and Chile. It does, however, inhabit a wide range of environments,
ranging from warm deserts to cold, wet zones and from sea level up
to an altitude of 4000m. In Peru, the guanaco is now almost extinct
and the population cannot be more than 5000 specimens. For
thousands of years, the guanaco provided meat and furs for the
tribes who inhabited Patagonia, a region of extreme climatic
conditions.
Unlike the alpaca and the llama, guanacos have no variation in
colour, but have a shaggy fleece of a uniform reddish brown, with
white underparts and blackish face. The guanaco has a small head
and pointed ears, a long, curved neck and long, slim legs. It can
measure from 1.20m to 2m in height and can weigh from 120kg to
150kg. Guanacos live in groups comprising one male and five to ten
females with their young. The mating season is between November and
February in Peru, and a female gives birth to a single baby after
an eleven-month gestation period. The guanaco is a very swift
animal and a good swimmer, able to cross from one island to another
in areas like Tierra del Fuego. It is also extremely curious, a
trait that sometimes allows it to become a victim to its predators
– even when being shot at, the animals will not take fright
and run away.
Its coat consists of a double layer of fibres. One layer is made
of relatively short fibres (3–4.5cm) which are fine and soft, the
other layer of long, coarse hairs. Average diameter is
approximately 16 microns, but the fibre is not legally traded on
international markets unless there is express authorisation from
the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species
(CITES). Each animal can provide up to 500g of fibre annually.
As the strongest of the South American camelids, guanacos are
hard to capture and shear. Many are hunted even to this day and are
thus threatened with extinction. It is therefore necessary to find
a way of capturing these animals alive so their fibre can be used,
but without harm to the species.
Vicuñas (Lama vicugna) are the smallest,
rarest and most delicate of the South American camelids, with a
fleece that is the finest and most sought after in the world. There
are approximately 150,000 vicuñas in South America, which is 85% of
the world population, and most of these inhabit Peru, with smaller
numbers to be found in Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. Vicuñas were
on the edge of extinction in the 1960s, but thanks to various
conservation programs they are no longer in danger of extinction.
They inhabit the higher regions of the Andes at altitudes close to
3800m above sea level.
The vicuña has a shoulder height of about 90cm and weighs
35–50kg. It measures 1.25–1.50m to the top of its head, and its
hair, which consists of fibres 2–4cm long, is usually a light brown
or cinnamon colour with, like the guanaco, white on the chest,
belly and the inner parts of the legs. The chest fibres may reach a
length of 20cm and serve as protection against the cold. The vicuña
can live for up to 20 years. The females give birth to a single
young animal, between December and April, but especially in
February, after a gestation period of 11 months .
The vicuña has a remarkably long, fine, soft and lustrous
fleece, which gives an annual yield of approximately 250g per
animal. Average diameter is 10—12 microns, making it the finest
fleece in the world. During the Inca Empire, its use was permitted
only for making garments to be worn by members of the government.
Nowadays it has an extraordinary value in textiles and apart
from its fineness, is remarkable for its providing a very high
degree of thermal insulation.
The Huarizo: A cross between an alpaca and a llama is
generally known in Perú as a Huarizo. This hybrid has rather coarse
fiber and phenotypic characteristics of both the alpaca and the
llama. In the upper Andean zone, where alpacas are raised by
families of herders whose resources are limited, it is not uncommon
to find mixed herds of alpacas and llamas, and this can give rise
to the procreation of huarizos.
For industrial purposes, the term 'huarizo' denotes a fiber quality
which does not necessarily come from the hybrid animal; it is used
to describe a product (top or yarn) in which the average fiber
diameter is between 28 and 29 microns and may indeed come entirely
from a pure alpaca.
|
|